Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children do not want to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
